Hi Phil,
I’ve just encountered the same problem, i.e. the problem is that you can’t display the language switcher in the upper part of the page (except on the post page) because 20 17 theme has the widgets only at the bottom. But, who will scroll till the end just to check if there is a language button at all?
I’ve come to an idea that works well: you can’t add the widget but you can add a link. On the top of the text on Croatian page, I inserted the link towards the adequate English page and named it “ENGLISH” (followed by a little US flag). And I did so in the opposite direction. It is easy and you have to do it on each page that has a translation. You can even have more than one link, i.e. two languages…
Hope this helps. If anyone has a better solution, please give us a hint.
ante