thanks for the tip – I fiddled with it after posting, and noted that the grey lines didn’t happen with a Google Maps background – only with the Mapquest tiles, so it is apparently very specific to my first attempt.
the url for the site I’m tinkering with is not set up yet, but you can preview the draft here (the theme is Montezuma):
http://159.121.14.95/ocmdn/
the map is in the Read more of the most recent post. I’ll add both backgrounds for comparison…